Submitted by Judy
Most commercial patterns have an average cup size of a B or C, so you will most likely need to make a bust adjustment on a pattern. You can determine how large or small of an adjustment you should make by taking your bust measurement (across the apex of your breasts) and your high bust measurement (just below your armpits). The difference between these numbers tells you how much to adjust the bust area of a pattern.
This video on a full bust adjustment is a great tutorial that explains the measurements and how to make the adjustments.
You might also be interested in this video on making a smaller bust adjustment:
Hope that helps!
Ashley
Do you have a sewing question you’d like answered by an expert? Email your question to editor@nationalsewingcircle.com or reach out to us on Facebook.
Please note: questions may be edited for clarity and relevance.
I a am wondering how I get into the videos and instructions. I sent my payment severalmonthsago .Hope you can help. Thank you.
Hi, Margaret. Please contact us at 1-855-208-7187; our Customer Service Team would be happy to assist you!
How do you enlarge the pattern for a bigger bust?
Hello Margaret,
Here are several great tutorials and resources for how to make a sewing pattern larger for a larger bust:
https://www.nationalsewingcircle.com/video/full-bust-adjustment-tutorial-004121/
https://workroomsocial.com/blog/tutorial-make-full-bust-adjustment-bodice-without-underarm-side-seam-darts/
https://curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/
Cheers,
Ashley
National Sewing Circle
I wear a 40 G bra. Can I make a big enough side dart to accommodate me or would a side waist dart help along with the side dart work? Who has patterns for big women?
Hi,
Unfortunately I am not overly familiar with this adjustment, as it is not one that I have to make on any of my own garments. However, here are several great resources that can help you with this:
https://www.nationalsewingcircle.com/video/full-bust-adjustment-tutorial-004121/
https://curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/
https://workroomsocial.com/blog/tutorial-make-full-bust-adjustment-bodice-without-underarm-side-seam-darts/
Cheers,
Ashley
I enjoyed this tutorial. But I’m a VERY large lady with sisters who are also large and my issues are with RTW bras. What makes it hard for me is my L breast had a piece removed. I never had great luck with RTW bras to begin with but it’s even worse no and many bras use stretch straps etc. I’m looking to learn how to make my own bras and in particular, Bullet Bra’s in my size 54 DDD or G. The way I’d like them is with cotton and overlay some with more feminine fabrics. The cotton is to help keep down the sweat. The Bullet Bra always supported me in the past…lifting without cutting into my shoulders. Most bras for girls my size sag badly sometimes even looking like I’m not wearing a bra at all. Since I cannot afford fitted bras specifically made for me I want to make my own. I realize this is no easy task for someone whose a blend of beginner to moderate experience but I really need this and I want Bullet Bras. I’ve found a place that sell them RTW but I’ve explained about my special need and anyway they don’t make them in my size. Can you point me in the right direction where I may be able to find patterns for Bullet Bras that can be adjusted to fit me if not printed in my size? I really hope you can help. By the way, I bought a Mrs. Depew Bullet Bra pattern but cannot for the life of me figure out how to use it. Thank you.
Hi there Delicia!
That’s an awesome question! Here’s a link to a Bullet Bra pattern that shows you how to create the bra to fit your exact size! I hope this helps!
http://www.vavoomvintage.net/2013/10/the-va-voom-bullet-bra-sew-along-day-1.html
Sincerely,
Jessica
National Sewing Circle Video Membership
This is an excellent pattern to work with. I found it very forgiving of my errors and easy to work with. It helps that I’m not having to work on myself to make adjustments.
Thank you
42103Interfacing to use for a dress?
Can you find your high bust measurement on the sewing pattern?
Hello,
Patterns do not typically give the high bust measurement on the back of the pattern envelope (some do, such as Love Notions and Cashmerette).
However, for those with busts larger than a B cup (or if you have more than a 2 1/2″ difference between your bust and high bust), it can be beneficial to use your high bust measurement as though it is the bust measurement when determining which pattern size to cut out. This is because the shoulders, neck and back of that pattern size are likely to be closer to your ‘frame size’, and the only alteration that would be required is an FBA. Whereas if you used your full bust measurement to find your pattern size, the bust may fit, but the armscye, shoulder and neck may be too large and require major alterations above the bustline.
This discussion is very helpful in explaining this: https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/106242
Hope this helps!
Best,
Nicki
How can I save this for further review?
Hello Laurette,
Unfortunately there is not a way to add an article to a video playlist. For frequent reference I would recommend bookmarking this article in your browser. If needed, here are directions on creating a video playlist: https://www.nationalsewingcircle.com/how-to-use-video-playlists/
If you have any other questions, please chat, email, or call Customer Service.
Sincerely,
Sarah
National Sewing Circle Video Membership