Off-the-Rack Sizing vs. Pattern Sizing

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NSC Question

I’m sewing costumes for my entire family (15 total!) and am having problems with sizes. I bought patterns according to off-the-rack sizes for each member, but when I went to make the muslin patterns, they weren’t nearly big enough. I now look at the waist and hip measurement, and those don’t even match up.

Is it true that pattern sizes are not off-the-rack sizes? Do you use the largest measurement on the pattern to the size of your person and then try to alter from there? Any suggestions on what I should do first? Thank you.

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NSC Answer

It is true that sewing pattern sizes and off-the-rack sizes are not similar at all. When sewing with a commercial pattern, the only real way to determine the correct size to make is to take body measurements.

When selecting a size to make based on the measurements, you will want to pick the size that all (or most) of the measurements line up with. If there is one that doesn’t match up with the rest in a certain size column, you can grade the pattern up or down in size as necessary.

For example, if a bust and hip measurement fall in a size 8 but the waist is a size 10, you can gradually grade the cutting line from and 8 to a 10 from the bust to the waist, and then back down from a 10 to an 8 from the waist to the hips.

Hope this helps!

Ashley

Related links:

How to Alter Sewing Patterns for Shorts and Pants
Sewing Pattern Alteration and Tools
Back to Basics: Drafting Patterns


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25 Responses to “Off-the-Rack Sizing vs. Pattern Sizing”

  1. Jeanne

    Even with matching measurements patterns usually run smal. At least that is my experiences and I have been seeing for 55 years

    Reply
  2. gladstep

    I have a pattern that needs single bias tape. I can’t find the correct color in single but I can in double. Can the double bias be used in the place of single? Can it be converted? Thank you

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Dear Gladys,

      Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-

      Yes, the double fold tape can be used, however if will be twice as wide if left as is. You could press open the double fold, cut it down and then re-press it, but that would be a rather time consuming process.

      Cheers,

      Ashley
      National Sewing Circle

      Reply
  3. Joanna

    I have a Janome embroidery machine, and purchase a lot of embroidery designs on-line which I download onto CDs. My computer was running slowly, so my techie nephew “cleaned” it for me. I now have a serious problem as I cannot view designs. Previously I would insert the CD and all my designs would appear as thumbnails. Now I just get pages of blank boxes. If I click on any of them I just get a message saying that Windows needs to know what program I want to use to open it. I can open files in my Janome software, but I need to be able to view the icons/thumbnails in order to find what I am looking for. Can anyone help me here?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Dear Joanna,
      Thank you for your patience. We apologize that you are having difficulty with your computer.
      Unfortunately, your problem exceeds our knowledge and area of expertise. Since your problem is a software and/or hardware issue, we recommend contacting the maker of your software and/or hardware. You can also try searching online, too, as many manufacturers have solutions to common problems listed on their websites. Below are a couple of numbers to reach:
      Amazon support: 1-888-280-4331, phone/chat/email 24 hours a day 7 days a week for Kindle issues/concerns.
      Apple support: 1-800-692-7753, 7 days a week from 7:00 am to 10:00 pm CST for iPad, Mac, iPhone issues/concerns.
      Google support: 1-877-355-5787, 24 hour service, 365 days.
      We are sorry for any inconveniences this may cause and we greatly appreciate your business.
      Sincerely,

      Taylar
      National Sewing Circle Video Membership

      Reply
  4. Brigitte

    My fairly new upgraded computerized sewing machine suddenly sounds loud when sewing. I checked for lint, thread in bobbin, changed the needle and re-threaded. It sews fine but sound is concerning. What can it be? Is it safe to continue sewing?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi,

      Unfortunately it is hard to say what might be causing the sound if you already checked all of those things- as one of them is usually the issue. Another thing that could be making the noise is if you are not using the correct type/size of needle for the fabric you are sewing. If that is correct and it is still making the noise I would recommend consulting your dealer about it.

      Cheers,

      Ashley

      Reply
      • Brigitte

        Thanks, I did follow your advice and it was a problem with the bobbin case that has been fixed. Thanks again

        Reply
  5. Carmela

    More of a question. I wear knee braces under my jeans. how do I prevent faded jeans in inner thighs, or ones that are faded.Should I put a patch over it?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi,

      Yes, a patch would work for this- as I am not familiar with another way to prevent the fabric from fading from being worn.

      Cheers,

      Ashley

      Reply
    • Karen

      I notice my jeans wear in this area, to help, I use iron on interfacing, the knit variety so it can stretch with the jeans. This seems help give them reinforcing without adding bulk. For jeans that I did not interface from the start I iron the interfacing on and then sew back and forth over the inside patch using a knit stitch(tiny zig zag), blends right in with the jean fabric. Hope this helps.

      Reply
  6. Cynthia Brown

    I enjoyed the video on making adjustments on patterns, however, I was wondering how to adjust children’s patterns. I have several darling patterns that are a size 6 that I would love to be able to adjust to a size 8 so that I don’t have to go to the expense of buying another pattern. Do you have any suggestions or advice on how to do this? Thank you? Also, do you answer me personally or do I have to keep checking your blog?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Cynthia,

      There is a fairly easy way to do this, however it really only works if your pattern already has multiple sizes on it- for example: if your pattern was sizes 2,4 and 6 and you wanted to make it an 8. If this is the case, you can simply start along one line of the pattern piece and measure the difference between the size 4 and the size 6. For example we’ll say it is 1/4″. You would then measure out and mark 1/4″ outside of the size 6 line and draw a new size 8 line. In areas where the lines taper together, you can still use the same technique and just mimic the taper distance between the size 4 and size 6.

      Hope this helps!

      Cheers,
      Ashley NSC Video Membership

      Reply
  7. Winifred

    Hi……can you please tell me where i can buy a hem buddy for measuring hems with…many thanks…Wyn

    Reply
  8. Lenora

    How do I find the instruction videos I want to see, without having to scroll through hundreds of videos? It is way too time consuming. I don’t see a search box exclusively for NSC. If I type something in the search box, I get an internet search. That’s not what I want. Is there a better way to zero in on the video I want to see? Thank you.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Lenora. You can type in the video subject you want to locate in the Search box. You will then need to scroll past the google ads and there you will find the NSC videos. If you have any questions let us know. You can contact our customer service team at 1-855-208-7187.
      Thanks
      Jean
      NSC Video Membership

      Reply
  9. the.barnowl@btinternet.com

    Skirt needs shortening but will spoil bottom. It has an elastic top in casing. How do I shorten please?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello,

      Without seeing the skirt – I would recommend removing the elastic from the casing so it can be reused. Then, cut the desired amount from the top of the skirt, remake casing and insert the elastic back in. Depending on the shape of the skirt, taking length from the top rather than the bottom may cause there to be excess fullness at the new casing area so you may need to take some fabric out at the side seams.

      Hope this helps!

      Cheers,
      Ashley NSC Video Membership

      We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special offer for your first year membership. http://go.nationalsewingcircle.com/C8260

      Reply
  10. Catherine

    I sew for Scottish dancing outfits. When sewing a gathered full tartan skirt for children, how can I take some of the fullness out of the waist.

    Reply
    • Catherine

      Let me add o my question. I do not use a pattern as I have to adjust for the child. Some child sizes can take more fullness than others.

      Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Catherine. You can do this by adding some darts along the top edge of the skirt. Doing this will allow you to be able to cut out some of the fullness along the waistband area but still keep the fullness in the rest of the skirt.

      Reply