Men’s dress shirts can be great projects for sewers looking to get into garment construction. They have less fitting and shaping requirements than other garments and also tend to have fewer pieces. However, there are several components that need to be mastered in order to give it a real professional finish.
Over the years I have sewn several men’s dress shirts. Typically I would find a commercial pattern I liked and follow it step-by-step. Luckily dress shirts for men don’t vary much in the front, back, and arms. However, I found there are dozens of ways to customize the collars, cuffs, and pockets! Even the simplest of changes can completely alter the look of the shirt.
It actually wasn’t until my recent engagement to my fiancé that I really started looking at all the different shirt styles out there and how easy it was to customize patterns. Feeling comfortable with my sewing abilities (and having a small wedding party!), I decided I would sew everything for my wedding – my dress, my bridesmaids’ dresses and all the shirts and vests for my groom and his groomsmen.
Along the way I discovered some valuable tricks for finishing the collars, cuffs, and pockets so everything would be picture-perfect on our big day. Compiled here is an overview of the various styles and how to alter your classic patterns to achieve them. Read on to learn how you can master these essential elements for your own men’s dress shirts – wedding-related or not!
Classic Collars
A typical commercial pattern will have a classic collar. To sew a classic collar, simply place the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge and sides, beginning and ending 5/8” from the edge. The points of the collar are the most important part, so ensure you stop 5/8” from the edge before pivoting and continuing on.
If it helps, mark your stitching line before you begin. Turn the collar right side out and press. Sandwich the collar between the two pieces of the collar band and stitch along the upper edge.
Your classic collar is now ready to be attached to your shirt.
Cutaway Collars
A Cutaway collar (pictured on the right) is another popular type of collar for men’s dress shirts. It is called a cutaway because of the extra distance between the two points of the collar. This extra area that is “cut away” shows more of the shirt and gives extra room for larger tie knots like the Windsor.
Cutaway collars are constructed in the same manner as a classic collar, but require a slightly different pattern piece. To modify the classic collar piece to make a cutaway collar, start in the middle of your pattern and simply taper the collar edges so the collar the same height along the entire piece and the points are removed.
Classic Barrel Cuffs
Now that you’ve mastered collars it’s time to move onto cuffs. When making a shirt following a commercial pattern it will most likely have a classic barrel cuff with one button.
To construct a barrel cuff simply place the two pieces right-sides together and stitch around the sides and lower edge. It is important to have crisp corners on a barrel cuff, so again, marking your stitching line may be helpful. I’ve used white thread on black fabric here so you can easily see my stitches.
Another modification that can be made to the barrel cuff is to round the edges. Here’s how to modify your barrel cuff pattern piece. To do this, measure 1” over and 1” down from each upper corner of your pattern. Draw a curved line to connect the marks.
French Cuffs
One way to make a men’s dress shirt even dressier is to add a French cuff. A French cuff is folded and can be made to wear with buttons or cuff links.
To modify a barrel cuff pattern piece for a French cuff, simply double the length of the classic barrel cuff pattern piece. Construct this cuff just like a barrel cuff and then fold in half.
Portofino or Turnback Cuffs
Another fancy cuff that can be added is the Portofino or Turnback cuff. It is also referred to as the James Bond cuff! This cuff is constructed similarly to the French cuff because you begin with a larger piece and fold it back; however, there is a small amount of shaping to be done to the pattern piece first.
To modify the barrel cuff pattern piece for a James Bond cuff, simply double the length of the classic barrel cuff pattern piece and then round the edges following the instructions above.
Classic Dress Pockets
The final finishing touch that can change the look of a men’s dress shirt is the pocket. Again, if following a commercial pattern, it will most likely have a classic dress pocket.
To construct this pocket, double fold the upper edge ½” toward the wrong side, press, and then edgestitch along the folded edge. Fold the remaining sides and lower edge ½” toward the wrong side and then press. The pocket is now ready to be attached to the left front of the shirt.
Regular Pockets
One modification that can be made to the classic pocket is to change the pocket bottom from a point to a straight edge. This can be referred to as a regular pocket.
To modify the pattern piece for a regular pocket, extend each pocket side by ½” and then draw a straight line across the pocket bottom.
Pleated Pockets
Another modification that can be made to the pocket is to add a pleat. This is known as an inverted pleat.
To modify your pattern piece for an inverted pleat, follow the instructions above to create a flat pocket bottom, and then extend the pocket width by ½” on each side.
On the wrong side, draw a solid vertical line down the pocket center. Measure ½” on either side of the mark and draw a dotted line. Measure another ½” out on either side of the dotted line and draw another solid line.
Fold the dotted line out towards the solid line.
Repeat with the other side and then baste in place.
The pocket is now ready to be constructed just like the others by double-folding the top edge and edgestitching, and then folding the sides and bottom ½” toward the wrong side.
Even after all of these variations, there are still dozens more. Once you’ve mastered these shirt essentials with the regular or commercial pattern pieces change it up and try something new!
Related Video: Making Lined Patch Pocket Patterns
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How do I put a pocket on stretch pants?
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This is absolutely great!! I’ve been setting up my sewing room for awhile now so while I’m waiting on all my supplies to arrive I’ve been on the internet trying to find video’s that show & explains the “how to” in sewing patterns, making/altering patterns etc, I have to say this is the best most easily understandable video’s & written theory of sewing patterns I’ve come across & it takes me awhile to understand thing’s as I have literacy issues so that’s very good for not only me but everyone as we’re not rereading cause of being confused. So I’ve just signed up for the year! As I’m very happy & in hopeful I’ll be learning heaps more here!! 👍😁💯
Good information. However, the first few pictures just look like white rectangles. The photos need to be enlarged to see the dotted lines of the alterations. Also, interfacing is not mentioned, unless I missed it.
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An outstanding share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a coworker who was
doing a little homework on this. And he in fact ordered me breakfast due to the fact that I stumbled upon it
for him… lol. So allow me to reword this…. Thank
YOU for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending some
time to discuss this issue here on your blog.
I would like to begin a t shirt quilt for my three children I have a serger and husquaverna
Useful and keep updates and educate more
Where is the collar stand on your example? I’m making shirts at the moment and have never sewn an oblong with points straight onto the body of a shirt. There are 2 pieces plus interlining for the oblong piece with the pointed corners and 2 pieces interlined for the collar stand which need attaching to each other before being attached to the body of the shirt. I can’t envisage a good fit without a collar stand? Also, at the corners of the oblong piece I would suggest just one stitch at a 45 ° angle to the seam line at each corner, which would help when turning right side out to help stop the corners popping when trying to get a good point.
Where is the collar stand on your example? I’m making shirts at the moment and have never sewn an oblong with points straight onto the body of a shirt. There are 2 pieces plus interlining for the oblong piece with the pointed corners and 2 pieces interlined for the collar stand which need attaching to each other before being attached to the body of the shirt. I can’t envisage a good fit without a collar stand?
Hi there Christine!
That’s a great question!
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Hi, I would llike to sew polo shirts. I need to know where can I find collars and cuffs for polo shirts. I cannot find them in my area. Could you please help me.
Thank you,
Catherine
Hi there Catherine!
That’s a great question and we’d love to help!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
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What type of interfacing makes the collars look nice and crisp? I’ve had trouble with this for years.
Hi there Gayle!
That’s a great question and we’d love to help!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
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Do you have a video on men’s jacket alterations? In particular making the sleeve length shorter.
Hello Cheryl,
We do have a video called “Sewing Sleeves for a Better Fit”! Click here to watch: https://www.nationalsewingcircle.com/video/sewing-sleeves-better-fit-008990/.
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First of all I want to say awesome blog!
I had a quick question which I’d like to ask if you don’t
mind. I was curious to know how you center yourself and clear your thoughts before writing.
I’ve had a hard time clearing my mind in getting my ideas out.
I do enjoy writing but it just seems like the first 10 to 15 minutes are lost simply just trying to figure out how to begin.
Any recommendations or tips? Thanks!
Hello Marvin,
Thank you for contacting us.
This is what I do: To clear your mind, start by closing your eyes or focusing intensely on an object in the distance. Then, try some deep breathing exercises by taking a deep breath, holding it for a few moments, and slowly exhaling. If you have trouble sitting still, try walking meditation, or a form of yoga to help clear your mind.
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enjoy your info,. Need all the help I can get.
May I just mention how much fun I did not have fitting my soon to be son-in-law’s wedding shirt? He is a body builder. Oh my! Felt like I’d climbed a mountain when I got the fit perfect on the third mock up! And will be adding French cuffs!
I know how to make shirt sleeve plackets – however when adding a French cut the inside placket gets turned around ( turned over?) anyway it’s different and I cannot figure it out. Besides that I cannot find anything on the internet except fir a two picture diagram from david coffins book. Is there anyt step by step plackets w French cuffs fir dummies out there I can follow!?!?!?
Thank you , joe
Hi Joe. I am not sure I understand your question. When adding a French cuff to a shirt you should not need to change the placket at all. An easy way to make a French cuff is to simply make the cuff twice the normal width and then attach it just as you would a regular barrel cuff.
Hope this helps!
Thanks
Ashley-NSC
Hey Joe
New here but this may work for you (it’s now all I use for my plackets on all shirts):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwOQMrYzNqg&t=1s
I used to really struggle with them but since finding this free template and Angela’s videos my finish has improved dramatically.
Cheers
Mark (UK)
Thank you for the article. Four points;
1. I think a collar with a collar band is preferable to one without. I find it easier to sew it to the neck of the shirt without puckers, and it also sits better on the person.
2. It is great to see the separated pieces like this, but in my experience the killer part of all of them is attaching them to the body of the shirt, and more especially of the attachment points at the edges (which I think one of your other responders was referring to). I am very rarely happy with the way my collar band sits right at that meeting point at the shirt front, or my cuffs at the sleeve (placket) edge. I am frequently told they are fine and I am too fussy, but they are definitely the weak point as far as I am concerned. Any tips?
3. You also didn’t mention yokes. All the men’s shirt patterns I have use a yoke, and again they are my preference, as they allow better flexing and comfort when wearing. I have finally mastered the fully internal sewing of the yoke (which involves rolling up both front and back pieces and sewing them ‘inside’ the yokes) with great glee. But they too can be tricky.
4. Plackets! I don’t know how your pattern handled the sleeve opening (some just fold back a narrow edge and stitch) but again most use plackets. There are lots of variations on these. Any good ideas you have had?
I can recommend a Kwik Sew pattern no. 3422 I have had for a number of years, as a very reliable one which has made up in a variety of fabrics for my DH, and always looks good.
Cheers!
I’m looking for instruction on how to alter a patttern to accomodate a larger neck circumfrence. Lots of instruction to be found on how to sew a collar (which I think is pretty straight forward) but nothing on altering the neck size on a man’s dress shirt. If you know, I’d so appreciate some advice. Hubby now has an old man’s body but patterns are for young mens’ proportions. Thank you for your time.
Making a collar larger can be pretty straight forward as well. First, measure to see exactly how much you need to add to the collar. For this example, we’ll say you are adding 1″. Find the center back of both the upper and under collar pattern pieces. Cut the pattern into two pieces and insert 1″ of tissue or pattern paper to make the collar pieces bigger. They can now be cut out and constructed as normal.
The next part of making the collar larger is that you also need to make the neck opening larger in the same amount so that everything still lines up. There are several ways this can be done. Depending on your shirt pattern, there may be two pleats somewhere in the back. You can either make theses smaller, or omit them entirely in order to gain the extra 1″ of fabric needed around the neck opening. If you like the looks of the pleats and want to keep them, another easy way would be to make the front button bands wider, or simply add 1/2″ to each opening edge of the front pattern pieces before attaching the button bands.
These would be the two areas I would add width to first. If you try to add it to the front and back shoulder seams you will then need to also enlarge the sleeve, which can be tricky.
very nice. thanks
I found this information helpful in the future when I make another shirt. Thanks
My husband has been asking me to make him some shirts and this is helping give me the confidence to try :)
Very informative articles. Thanks a bunch! However I’ve been searching the web for how to narrow the front band on a men’s dress shirt? Do you have a tutorial on this process. Mary
Hi Mary.
By narrow the front band- do you mean make the under collar shorter and more narrow? If so, you can simply take away height from either the top or bottom of that pattern piece as long as you maintain the same shape and transfer all markings so everything still lines up with your upper collar and shirt neck edge.
If you mean making the space between the two front collar points narrower- I have added a link on how to draft collar patterns (I’m not sure if you are using a commercial pattern or making your own).
http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/drafting-the-mens-shirt-collar/technique_steps/12
You can change the separation between the two collar points by making the point more or less pronounced (making adjustments to the “n” and “k” points on the diagram).
Hope this helps!
What kind of interfacing do you use.? I have not found one that gives a crisp finish
I’ve been making mens shirts for years mostly because I have a very TALL husband. Anyway, I, too, always take a stitch across the collar or cuff points to get a crisp corner and it works every time. As for interfacing, my husband likes a very stiff collar on dress shirts so many times I layer a seemingly crisp interfacing using at least 2 layers, sometimes even 3 and it works great.
Very interesting but doesn’t a Portofino cuff look like http://www.lewistaylorshirts.com/images/style/d64ad16d220d06b85bec05d6fedc160c.jpg
Hi!
Yes, you are correct- that is a Porrofino or Turnback cuff. There are however, several varieties. A turnback cuff can be square or rounded, and the amount of angle can be altered to show more or less of the button area.
Hope this helps!
this doesn’t help you with the tricky bits of getting the front of the collar not bulky with lots of layers, similarly with the cuff at that same point. I found another video that showed how to sew a little bit inside out and then turn it to cope with this problem, but haven’t made a shirt since to try it. I’ve also been making some great men’s and ladies’ shirts with contrast collar and cuff lining or front facing.
Thank you i learned a lot very good!!
Showing how to make the different cuffs was great i learned alot verry good!
Hi Nancy, Glad you enjoyed it! We love hearing feedback from our members!
used it in class room for teaching.
Very interesting. Thanks
A better way to get perfect corners and points is to pivot one stitch at the point at a 45 degree angle. It takes out a very small amount but makes ahuge difference when turning right side out. And it’s extemely easy to do!