Knits: Zigzag For Stretch

Learn how to hem knit fabrics while maintaining the stretch of the finished garment. When sewing or hemming knit fabric or readymade garments, zigzag and other stretch stitches allow the seam to stretch around the body, which is critical for garments that have little to no ease. Get tips and tricks for sewing knit fabrics and hemming a knit from Kristie Smith!

First, fold up the hem according to how short you wish the garment to be. Use pins and/or press the hem in place to create a crease at the lower edge. Set your iron to the knit setting if available, as it will protect the acetate or other synthetic fabric that may be in the fabric.

Kristie recommends sewing with the right side facing out so you can see how the outside of the garment will look when finished. If the hem is a small circle, such as the lower edge of a pair of leggings or kid’s pants, remove the machine bed and slide the circle over the free arm of the machine. Line up the fold at the lower edge with the correct measurement line on the machine’s throat plate, depending on how deep you wish the hem to be.

Select a zigzag stitch, which will provide stretch in the hemline, especially if it’s a garment that will get stretched as the garment is being manipulated and worn. Don’t pull or the knit will stretch and pucker, let the machine guide the fabric. Go slow over the seam as it will be extra bulky.

If you have excess fabric on the inside above the hemline, fold the hem back and trim the excess near to the seam.

For more on sewing knits, check out these videos:

Tips for Sewing With Knits
Knit Binding Tips
Knits 101