Setting in Sleeves

Learn how to use bias strips to help set a sleeve cap into the armscye without needing to gather up cumbersome basting stitches.

Easing in the extra fabric at the sleeve cap can be a tricky task that many garment makers dread. To ease in the sleeve cap, pattern manufacturers typically instruct sewists to stitch two lines of basting threads and pull the thread to gather the fabric slightly, to fit the larger sleeve cap into the smaller armscye. However, threads can break, gathering can be fatiguing on hands, not to mention time consuming.

Kristie Smith demonstrates an easier way. Using the leftover bias strips from quilt binding, Kristie aligns the strip with the sleeve cap on the wrong side from front notch to back notch.

Using a slightly smaller seam allowance than the construction seams, Kristie demonstrates how to stitch from the center outward, toward the notch, while pulling gently. Pulling the bias strip while sewing stretches it, which gathers the sleeve cap, helping it to fit into its armscye without bothersome basting lines.

Kristie demonstrates how to trim the bias strip near to the seamline, then stitch the sleeve into the armscye as the pattern instructs. This method of setting in a sleeve is fast and easy, without extra steps.

For more garment making tips, check out these videos:
Flat Sleeve Insertion Technique
Knit Binding Tips
Tips and Tricks for Sewing Perfect Garments