Using Bias Fabric Grain

If you ever wanted to make a garment on the bias or add bias trips to a project or bind a project using bias binding, this is a great place to start. First, I'm going to discuss the basics of grain, then I'll teach you how to cut out a pattern piece on the bias. And then I'll show you some cool garments that will inspire you to get started. Lengthwise grain or straight grain are the strong warp threads that run lengthwise on the fabric. There's very little stretch because it's the main support of the weave.

Crosswise grain are the weft threads that run widthwise on the fabric. There's slight stretch because they're woven over and under the warp threads. Bias is not technically a grain, but it refers to any diagonal from the lengthwise and crosswise grain. There's a lot of stretch on the bias which makes it perfect for making garments. The selvage edge runs parallel to the warp threads.

If you purchase fabric from a bolt it will have selvages. To find the true bias, simply align a 45-degree ruler along the selvage and then draw a line 45 degrees and you'll have your true bias. For a beginner, I don't recommend using silky or sheer fabrics, but I recommend using natural fabrics such as cotton linen or broadcloth. Some fabrics, some heavyweight fabrics such as canvas don't benefit from being cut on the bias because they're too stiff. As you can see even when I stretch it on the bias it doesn't stretch very much.

When working with bias, be very careful not to over handle the pieces, because you can over stretch, stretching it out of shape. Next, I'm going to teach you how to cut out a pattern piece on the bias. I'm going to be using a simple top pattern but you could use a skirt or even a jacket pattern. There are patterns that are specifically made to be cut on the bias, but you can adapt any simple skirt or top pattern from straight of grain to bias. Just remember that when you're purchasing fabric to purchase a little bit more because the pattern pieces will be cut out at an angle.

To find the bias line, you'll simply draw a line that's perpendicular to the grain line. The grain line will be on the pattern. Then, you will fold the tissue over so that your line and the grain line intersect with the lines underneath the tissue. Then you'll do the same on the other side. Just match up the lines, and you see, now these lines that you just folded are your bias lines.

If you wanna do this an easier way, simply use a 45-degree ruler, and the 45-degree line is right here and align it with the grain line and the perpendicular line that you drew, and simply draw the bias lines. Next, position your pattern on the fabric so that the bias line that you drew is perpendi, is parallel to the selvage. Pin the pattern to the fabric and cut it out. Just remember that when you're cutting out the pattern, you wanna add wide seam allowances, about one to two inches because the fabric will stretch significantly. Also, remember that when you're stitching to slightly pull the seam while you stitch and use a 2.5 to 3 millimeters straight stitch.

Sometimes you might find that adding a sea, a center seam is beneficial, because it will help balance out both sides. As you can see, this side was cut on the bias and so was this and they were joined by a center seam which gives it a beautiful chevron look. Chevron simply means a V or a triangle shape. This is a ready-made garment I purchased at a clothing store and the fabric is cut on a bias, but it would have benefited from a center seam right here because when I wear it the fabric pulls to one side. Bias cut fabric is wonderful for binding projects, especially on curved edges.

Because bias fabric is stretchy, it goes around the curved edges very easily as opposed to straight of grain binding. Bias cut strips also add fun to stripes and plaids. The stripe on this was cut on the bias, and as you can see the plaid looks completely different than a straight of grain cut. This plaid skirt was cut on the straight of grain, it's nice and it's simple, but it's a little boring. But this skirt was cut on the bias.

It's nice and it's got a unique look and it also is figure flattering because the stripes are not horizontal. Another thing to keep in mind when you're constructing the garment is to tack the garment together before you stitch it, and hang it overnight or better yet hang it on a dress form so that it matches your body shape. You can also add small details using bias. You don't have to make the whole garment out of bias. The pocket flaps on this shirt were cut on the bias so it adds just a little bit of pop, same with the yoke.

Small details can be really fun and interesting. Making garments on the bias isn't difficult, it just takes a little practice. I hope you make your next garment on the bias.