Hong Kong Finish

Learn how to create a beautiful finish on the inside of unlined garments by using a tailoring technique called the Hong Kong finish. Kristie Smith shows you how to use bias binding to create this couture technique.

Protecting the raw edges of the seam allowances on the inside of a garment prolongs the life of the garment and prevents the seam from fraying, which creates annoying threads and will eventually compromise the strength of the seam.

Kristie demonstrates how to trim down the ⅝” seam allowances of the garment. Kristie uses bias strips that are around 2 ¼” wide, but you can use strips that are narrower. Save and repurpose leftover quilt binding to use for a Hong Kong finish. Be sure to cut strips on the bias grain to give a bit of stretch, which allows the binding to move naturally with the finished project.

Kristie demonstrates how to fold and press the bias binding to prepare it for using in the Hong Kong finish. For seams that will be crossed by another seam, the ends of the binding do not need to be finished.

Encase one side of the seam allowances within the binding and pin or clip. You may do both seam allowances within one binding, but with thicker fabrics it’s best to do theme separate

Kristie uses an edgestitch foot, which has a center guide that helps you stitch the edge of the binding. Move the needle position if needed to catch the binding fold in the seam. Using a thread that matches the binding for best results, stitch the binding. Trim the edges flush with the raw edges.

For more seam finishing techniques, check out these videos:
Sewing Seam Finishes & Hems
Sewing with Wool: Seam Finishes
How to Finish Seams when Sewing Silk
The Ins and Outs of Bias Tape