When it comes to garment alterations, hemming a pair of pants is one of the most common alterations that someone who knows how to sew gets asked to do. While many projects, garments included, can be finished with a simple double-fold hem, the two most commonly hemmed pairs of pants require different finishes. Ashley Hough shows you how to hem both jeans and dress pants.
The Blind Hem Stitch
The first hem that Ashey demonstrates is an invisible hem, also called blind hem stitch. This is the type of hem done on most dress pants and is done in a way that hides the stitching. Ashley begins by explaining that an invisible hem is a combination of zig-zag stitches and straight stitches. She shows that the straight stitches of the blind hem stitch are done on the seam allowance of the pants and the zig-zag stitch takes a small bite into the pant leg.
The main component of a blind hem is the preparation and folding of the fabric needed before you stitch to make the hem invisible. Ashley shows how to finish the lower edge of the fabric using a standard zig-zag or overcast stitch once the needed amount has been trimmed away. She then shows how to fold the fabric, keeping a small amount of the finished seam allowance visible.
Blind Hem Foot
Once the fabric has been finished, folded, and prepped, Ashley shows the best foot to use when stitching this type of hem, which is a blind hem foot. She demonstrates where to align the fabric on the foot and shows the stitch.
Once Ashley demonstrates how to do an invisible hem, she shows how to hem jeans in a way that allows you to keep the original hem. This can help the jeans keep their original look, especially if there is wear on the lower edge or any distressing.
Once you learn these techniques, learn the top 5 tips for hemming pants.